I’ve compiled a list of facts based upon questions that I receive from people that stop in.
1. How long until baby red worms become breeders?
Baby worms mature in about 4 to 6 weeks and live for about a year. This means that you will have mature breeders about 6 weeks after your red worms hatch from the capsule. You can see how this would exponentially grow your worm population. The time frame and life expectancy is based upon a proper environment.
2. How many worms can come from 1000 worms?
We’ve heard all kinds of estimates about how many worms will come from 1000 worm and we get questions all the time from people worried that their worm population will explode and spill out of their compost bins. This will never happen unless you want it to. The carrying capacity of the bin will dictate the amount of worms your bin will sustain. More food and space will mean more worms. If you take 1000 red worms and move the breeders to a new bin every month it is possible to end up with roughly 1 million worms in about 2 years. This is an estimate based on the very best worm husbandry procedures. In a normally maintained bin with food added weekly you will never grow 1000 worms exponentially unless you move the breeders to fresh bins every month and care for the bins containing the babies.
3. Can I use regular dirt from outside for my worm bin?
You cannot use regular dirt from outside for your red worm composting bin. Red worms require a good bedding made from shredded paper, cardboard , peat moss or coconut fiber. The food should be manure of food scraps. The best bedding is a mixture of all of the items listed. The bedding must be light weight and not compacted so that the worms can move around. The bedding must also be able to have air flow so that anaerobic activity does not take over the bed. Common dirt will not allow for any of this and your worms will soon die. This is why red worms are not good for lawns and gardens on their own but their castings are fantastic. A handful of dirt in the worm bin will help your red worms digest the food you provide so a little dirt won’t hurt.
That’s it for now.
Have some fun facts or questions? Post them here or send them to me and I’ll add them here. Thanks!
Ken
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your picture links on “mealworm breeding how to” are bad, they link to files on your C: Drive
Thank you. I will fix that. I really appreciate the heads up.
Ken
Ken, there are times when my worm farm seems wet and other times dry. Which should it be & what is the best method for maintaining the correct moisture level.?Thank you!
Great question. The bedding should be moist but not wet. You should not be able to squeeze more than one or two drops from the bedding. Any more than that and you risk anaerobic conditions which will quickly kill your worms.